We’ve had our eye on Canadian-based Recon Instruments for a while now, especially when they announced that they would collaborate with Zeal Optics to enter the winter sports goggle market with a revolutionary product estimated for the end of this year. We are absolutely blown away by what they have come up with. Not only does the Recon-Zeal Transcend goggle completely transform the reason we cover our eyes while we ride, it ushers in a completely new era in snowboarding technology.

Let’s get down to the facts.

Features

• World’s only fully-capable GPS goggle.
• Real-time speed, latitude/longitude, altitude, vertical distance traveled, total distance traveled feedback.
• Chronograph/stopwatch mode for timing runs, clock, and run counter.
• Temperature sensor
• Accelerometer
• Gyroscope
• 3-Dimensional lens
• USB-capable
• $399 for SPX version, $499 for SPPX

How does the goggle display all this info?

This is the part we love. The lens has a built-in micro-LCD display that sits right below your right eye (yes, serious black ops stuff). When you put the goggle on all the information is displayed in a user-friendly dashboard that appears to hang six-feet in front of you. Glove-friendly buttons on the outside of the lens help you navigate the full-color display and user menus. One menu will show you stuff like your current speed and altitude, another one will show you your fastest run alongside a few other stats, and somewhere along the way you can punch a button to drop a location marker you can view later on a map.

Transcend's Built-In Micro-LCD Display

The Lens

There are currently two models for this line of goggles. The Transcend SPPX is fitted with a polarized photochromic lens. That’s right, this lens will get darker or brighter adaptively depending on sunlight conditions. The brighter it is, the higher the rate of activation of the photochromic pigment and the darker the lens will get. In low-light situations the lens becomes much clearer as the pigment remains deactivated. The Transcend SPX comes fitted with your standard high-end polarized lens without all the fancy photochromic features.

Software

Recon Instruments developed a special program for this product that you comes with the goggles. Using the Recon HQ application, you can plug the goggle into your system and upload all your data. The software will pull-up actual maps of the resort you just rode, layout all your tracks on it, and give you all your stats. You can connect to the Recon Instruments website and share your info with an online community that’s becoming increasingly popular. Recon has also talked about the possibility of a software development community for more apps that can potentially be accessed directly from the goggles.

Recon HQ Application

This is one product we definitely cannot wait to get our hands on for the 2010-2011 riding season. Products like these can definitely help a rider get the most out of the relatively short-lived action on the slopes. Besides, who doesn’t want to feel like a commando while shredding some pow?

Check out the official product page here.

Related posts:

1. Ski and Snowboarding Goggles: Buying Guide
2. Snowboarding Goggles
3. 5 Snowboarding Gifts for Beginners

Even though I had no plans to purchase anything at this year’s Ski & Snowboard Show (the board I wanted was not going to be available at the show), I still went since attending the show has become the official unofficial kick off to the season (side note: I have goosebumps just thinking about what an awesome season this year is going to be!). I met up with a few friends, 3 of them being beginners. Long story short, I spent about 4 hours helping them pick out what they needed and man was it a lot of fun! More importantly, that experience made realize how hard of a time it is for a new rider buying his/her first snowboard and set of gear. Given how popular my ‘Buying Your First Snowboard: The Most Comprehensive Guide‘ article was, it made sense to write a similar article about buying your first snowboarding jacket and pants (this applies to both Men’s and Women’s gear).

Snowboarding Jacket

Finding a good jacket is essential. Not only do you want a jacket that will keep you warm and dry, you also want a jacket that will last a few seasons and can be worn in different weather conditions. Essentially, there are two types of jackets that you can consider:

• Snow Jacket: This is your traditional thick jacket that requires minimal layers to be worn underneath it. They can vary in thickness, but typically speaking, these jackets are thick and can keep you very warm. The warmest kind are made with Goose Down feathers. The advantages of this kind of jacket is in its ability to keep you very warm. The downside is, you are going to sweat your ass off if there’s any sun or if it’s not cold enough. Also, the warmer ones are usually pretty expensive. It’s a good option for those extremely cold conditions, but on not so cold days, you’re stuck with an overpriced jacket that’s going to make you uncomfortably hot.
• Shell: As the name would imply, this is a thin shell jacket that would be worn as the outer most layer. These wont keep you warm by themselves given their thin construction, but they are designed to keep you dry (water resistant) and block out as much wind as possible. The advantages of this kind of jacket is in its versatility. Worn as the outer most layer, all you need is a warm flees and thermal worn underneath to keep you warm, even under extremely cold conditions. I personally wear a shell jacket with a flees and a ‘stay dry’ thermal – this is what is known as a 3-Layer System. If you find that it’s an exceptionally cold day, all you need is a thick flees and you will stay warm. If it’s an exceptionally warm day, go for a normal flees and simply keep your shell jacket air vents open – you can even unzip the jacket if it’s too warm.

The Features of a Good Jacket:

• Windproof: Wind greatly affects the temperature within the snowboarding jacket, so you need a shell jacket that keeps as much wind as possible. Your body generates a lot of heat while you ride and you want to make sure that heat stays trapped underneath your shell jacket. I’m sure I don’t need to say this, but for clarity’s sake, if any of that cold wind makes it into your jacket, the heat your body generated is going to be lost. The easiest way to tell if a jacket is windproof to check whether the jacket is made with fully taped seams (basically every seam, regardless of whether it will come in contact with wind, is fully taped). You will want to avoid jackets with ‘critically’ taped seams. This basically means, only seams that are expected to be most in contact with wind are taped, while other seams will not be.
• Waterproof: It goes without saying, you need a jacket that is waterproof. Whether it’s rain, falling snow, or snow from the ground, the dryer your jacket, the warmer it will keep you (and the lighter it stays). The easiest way to figure out how water resistant a jacket will be is by checking its water resistance measure (how much water, measured in mm, can be suspended above the fabric before water seeps through). Mid-range jackets will have water resistance between 5,000 mm and 10,000 mm. You will want a jacket that is no less than 10,000 mm, but preferably 15,000 mm. Generally speaking, the highest measure is about 20,000 mm, but that’s overkill for snowboarders.
• Breathability: A good jacket should be able to resist liquid water while allowing water vapour to pass through. This basically allows the sweat generated by your body to evaporate and escape through the jacket. The easiest way to figure out a jacket’s breathability is by checking its breathability measure. Mid-range jackets will have breathability measures between 5,000 g and 10,000 g.  Anything between 5,000 g and 15,000 g is good, but obviously, the higher the better.
• Air Vents: Make sure you find a jacket with easily accessible (remember that you will have gloves on and nothing is worse than trying to fetch that tiny zipper grip) air vents. These will prove very useful if it’s a bit warm but not warm enough to justify unzipping the jacket or even using a thinner fleece. With these air vents, you can just open them up as much as you need to allow a little cool air to enter. These are usually located on the sides.
• Gore-Tex: You will undoubtedly come across products with Gore-Tex. Gore-Tex is basically a type of fabric that is extremely water proof, wind proof, and overall considered as a high grade type of material. Many different brands use Gore-Tex to ensure the buyer that they are buying something of excellent quality. While this may be true, Gore-Tex products are much more expensive and more the most part unnecessary, especially for beginners. Gore-Tex fabrics have the equivalent of 20,000-25,000 mm water proofing. You can read more about their technology here.

Snowboarding Pants

For the most part, pants are very similar to jackets as it relates to things to consider when buying one. You can purchase pants that have a built-in thermal layer to keep you warm, or you can buy ‘shell’ pants and wear a separate thermal layer underneath. I’ve tried both options, and personally I prefer the two-layer system for pants. One other thing I would point out is to avoid tight pants. When trying them out on the store, just keep in mind that you will want something loose so that you don’t feel restricted on the slopes.

The Features of a Good Pair of  Snowboarding Pants:

• Windproof: As with jackets, you need pants with fully taped seams.
• Waterproof: While with jackets you could get a way with 10,000 mm waterproofing, you will want nothing less than 15,000 mm for pants. Pants come in contact with the snow a lot more than your jacket (every time you sit to do your bindings) and nothing is worse than wet pants and boxers/thermals.
• Breathability: This is much of a concern for pants, so anything above 5,000 g is good enough.

Layering

As suggested above, the ideal set up to use different layers. For jackets, a 3-Layer system is best. As you may know, the ideal way of clothing for every activity is to use different layers. Generally, it is advisable to follow the Three layer system. The first layer is your base layer and consists of thermal/’stay dry’ underwear. The middle layer is generally a fleece or anything else that keeps you warm. And the outer most layer will be your shell jacket as described above. The advantage of the layer system is in its flexibility. Typically speaking, your shell jacket and base thermal layer don’t change much, but the middle layer will be more of a variable depending on the weather and temperature.

For pants, you can go with 1 layer, but make sure the built-in thermals are warm enough. However, I would recommend a Two-Layer system, to accommodate for extra warm or extra cold days. With a Two-Layer system, you can find a water and wind proof pair of pants as the outer layer. For the base layer, you will need a good pair of thermals. I have a set of two; a slightly thicker pair for those extremely cold days, and a normal pair for all the other days.

In case you’re curious, my set up consists of the following:

• Jacket: AK 2L Softshell Jacket, which I am VERY happy with (link goes to my official review).
• Fleece: AK Fleece, which is no longer available.
• Base Layer: HH Dry; this is more of a ‘stay dry’ base layer than a thermal (link goes to Helly Hansen’s product listing page)
• Pants: Ripzone Trilogy Pants (link goes to Ripzone’s pants listing page)
• Pants Thermals: Old school 100% cotton long johns.

In summary, I wanted to keep this as simple as possible so I didn’t go into too many other details. As long as you watch out for the above things (and make sure you get a set of gear with the above requirements), you will have yourself an excellent jacket and pair of pants. Brand, design, and features like pockets, etc… will depend on your preference and budget. Honestly, you don’t need to spend too much for a good jacket, but it won’t hurt to buy a high quality one from the beginning. Good jackets last 4-5 seasons (even more if you really want them to), so don’t skimp out too much. As for pants, they are typically less expensive, and you should be able to find an excellent option for no more than $200. Just make sure it has at least 15,000 mm water proofing!

As always, please feel free to leave your suggestions or questions in the comments section.

Related posts:

1. [ak] Softshell Jacket Review
2. Ski and Snowboarding Goggles: Buying Guide
3. Snowboard Boots, Jackets, & Pants

Some suggest that helmets may increase the risk of neck injury in a crash or fall, particularly in children because of their greater head to body ratio.

Skiing and snowboarding are popular winter activities. Did you know that head injuries account for up to 19% and neck injuries up to 4% of all injuries reported by snow patrols and emergency departments? Traumatic brain injury is the leading cause of death and serious injury among skiers and snowboarders. I know a lot of riders don’t like helmets because they’re uncomfortable or they don’t look cool, but trust me, hospital beds are pretty uncomfortable and very uncool!

An analysis of 12 studies conducted in Europe, Asia, and North America, found that helmet use in recreational activities is beneficial. However, the authors were unable to determine the effect of the design, quality, or fit of the helmets.

“The use of helmets significantly protects against head injuries among skiers and snowboarders,” write Brent Hagel, Alberta Children’s Hospital, and coauthors. “Risks of head injury can be reduced by 35%…and between 2 and 5 of every 10 head injuries among helmet users could be prevented.”

I don’t need a study to tell me something so logical, but for those in denial or are on the fence about buying a helmet, I hope this is a good wake up call. Here’s a link to the scientific study on helmets and head injuries.

Related posts:

1. Snowboard Safety
2. Head Cams Roundup!
3. Top-ranked Snowboarder Kevin Pearce Suffers Critical Injury

Automaton has gone through some major hardware revamping in an effort to make their 2010-2011 line up of award winning sticks even better. Now, not all revamping leads to better things but their goal is to create the world’s finest and most fun freestyle snowboards. Only time will tell but in the meantime, it’s been revealed that two new models for 2011 from Automaton, the Babble and the Manimal, have been added. With graphics and art by Alex Funderburk and Eve Duhamel, I’d keep my eyes peeled for these.

Related posts:

1. Ellis Eecco Rocker 2011 Snowboard Review
2. Shaun White Snowboarding Origins iPhone Application
3. Recon-Zeal’s Transcend Shows Us The Future of Goggles

Ask and ye shall receive. Or something along those lines. I’ve gotten quite a few emails asking about ski and snowboarding goggles (say goggles 50 times…), what to get, what to look for, etc… So I put together this handy buying guide to help you find a good pair of snow goggles.

Generally speaking, your choice of goggles is pretty straight forward. Regardless of your riding style, how low hanging your snow pants are, or how funky your head gear is, goggles are goggles. Things to watch out for in snow goggles are:

• Fit
• Frame Features
• Lens Features
• Lens Colors Explained
• Tips
• Recommended Brands

Fit

• Just like snowboarding boots, fit is very important. In fact, so important, brands have created ‘racial’ fit types for e.g. the ‘Asian Fit’.
• Make sure there are no uncomfortable pressure points from the goggle outline pressing against your face. Generally speaking, good quality goggles use better designed foam lining that eliminate these pressure points.
• Make sure there are no gaps between your skin and the goggle foam outline. Good goggles have air vents designed into them for a reason.
• If you wear a helmet, make sure you try on the ski/snowboarding goggles with your helmet on. I didn’t do this with my first goggle purchase and ended up with goggles too big to fit with my helmet on – money down the drain.
• Same goes for riders and skiers who need to wear prescription glasses under the goggles. Though, I highly recommend contact lenses or prescription snow goggles. It’s just so much more comfortable that way.

Frame Features

• Good goggles have well designed foam outline made from good quality foam (Yes, there’s good foam and there’s bad foam!) The test: 1. Press on the foam outline with your thumb, hold for 5-7 seconds, and release. If the foam reverts back to its original shape in 2-3 seconds, then that’s good foam. If your thumb’s outline doesn’t disappear quick enough, then that’s bad quality foam.
• Make sure your goggles have well designed and enough vents. These are foam covered air portals, to let air flow through the skiing goggle to keep them fog-free. Generally speaking, the more expensive a goggle is, the better their ventilation system is.

Lens Features

• Double lenses prevent fogging and create a thermal barrier to keep you warm.
• Cylindrical double lenses provide good optics for a reasonable price.
• Spherical double lenses provide superior optics and fog-free vision.
• Polycarbonate lens material is generally the most durable.
• Look for an anti-scratch/anti-fog coating on the lenses.
• Make sure the lenses provide 100% UV and blue light protection.

Note: Look at the packaging to tell which of the above the goggles have.

Lens Colors Explained

• Clear lenses are best for extremely stormy conditions or for riding at night.
• Lemon/yellow lenses are best for stormy conditions and overcast days since they increase contrast and brighten up the landscape.
• Vermillon/pink lenses increase contrast in most conditions. This lens with a silver mirror is ideal for most riding conditions.
• Citrus/orange lenses also increase contrast and are great for bright days. Choose an option with a mirror to get a darker lens for the brightest conditions.
• Purple lenses are good in low-light conditions such as overcast and snowy days, because they bring out shadows and contours in flat light.
• Modulator or photochromic lenses change from a light pink/orange to a dark pink/orange depending upon the light conditions. They are a very light, high-contrast color for stormy weather and dark enough for the brightest days.
• Polarized lenses can cut the glare that reflects from snow or ice.

Tips

• The better quality goggles are more expensive and a good pair will run you anywhere between $100-150. But it’s a good investment. You’ll just regret getting cheaper goggles, as you’ll just pay more in the long run having to replace them more frequently.
• If you do a lot of park riding, considering investing in a cheaper goggles so you don’t worry too much about them getting knocked around.
• Always store your goggles in their protective pouch.
• Clean the outside of your goggle lenses with fresh water and a soft cloth
• Never wipe the inside of your goggle lenses; it can damage the anti-fog coating. If you get snow/ice on the inside, shake them out, put them back on and keep riding. As you ride, the lenses will air-dry.
• To keep your goggles from fogging, keep them on your face. Removing them while waiting in line for example can cause them to fog up, but don’t worry about that too much if the line is too long.
• If you’re goggles do fog up, just keep them on, and ride. The ventilation system will clear them up in seconds.
• Goggles with replacement lenses provide the benefit of being able to replace damaged lenses without having to pay for a whole new goggle.

5 Recommended Snow Goggle Brands

• Spy Optic – www.spyoptic.com
• Anon (currently using) - www.anonoptics.com
• Oakley (currently using) – www.oakley.com
• Smith Optics – www.smithoptics.com
• Bolle – www.bolle.com

Related posts:

1. Snowboarding Goggles
2. Buying Your First Snowboarding Jacket & Pants Guide
3. Recon-Zeal’s Transcend Shows Us The Future of Goggles

We’ve been getting a lot of requests for more details on the DH2 by Ride. There’s been a lot of buzz about this board among snowboarders for 2010. My friends that bought the board at the beginning of the season have fallen deeply in love with it and were hesitant to give it up for me to review it. After much negotiation, I managed to get my hands on one and really put it to the test on the slopes.

Setup: Ride DH2 155, ’08 Burton Cartel bindings, ’10 Burton Ion boots.

Location/Conditions: Mont Tremblant, Quebec, Canada. Machine groomed powder, kind of cold, North face of the mountain was a bit more on the powdery side.

Technology (worth mentioning)

• Low-Rise Rocker – The area at the center of the board running between the bindings is dead flat but the board pivots up slightly in shape just outside each of the bindings towards each tip.
• Carbon Pop Rods – Fiber-like structures in each of the tips give an added stiffness to the ends to enhance the pop of the board without adding stiffness to the core.
• Carbon Rays – A technology being adopted by a lot of manufacturers that features rods running from your bindings to the edges for quicker power transfer.
• Slimewalls – Ride’s coveted sidewall technology that features it’s own dampening system and is ultra durable for sliding on snow, metal, or wood.
• Membrain Topsheet – Ultra light topsheet to reduce board weight.

First Impression – As the bottom graphic so casually puts it… HELLSYEAH. This is one super fun board that translates really well over the mountain but finds its roots in the park. Past all the marketing and tech, pressing rails and landing jumps just felt a lot better on this board.

Flex – The board had a relaxed, fun feel to it. It’s definitely stiffer between the bindings than in the tips to give it the best of both worlds in terms of freeride/freestyle riding. Overall, a nice ride.

Feel/Turning – Although the way this board is built in a very complicated way, it all comes together for a very natural, balanced feel. My first couple of runs felt great going relatively fast and transitioning slowly on longer S-shaped turns. Transitioning into turns was easier than I expected and held onto a carve very smoothly as opposed to being aggressive. At even higher speeds the board felt stable and damp thanks to the stiffer core but would chatter if I pushed it past this point. The board felt relatively light under my feet and the base was waxy and fast.

Powder Riding – Took the board to the North face of the mountain that had significantly more powder and really enjoyed the way it floated. In deeper pow situations, I did need to ride the back seat a little to prevent it from sinking but it never really happened. In choppy areas the board did get a little bumpy but nothing to worry about too much. Pulling switches and buttering around in the pow was effortless compared to my Vapor and was definitely a lot easier to swing around.

Park Riding – This board is well equipped for the freestyle park rider. Despite being a reverse camber, it had really nice pop to it that made the entrance and exits to boxes and rails very nice. You can jib your brains out with this thing. The stiffer core wasn’t so nice for balancing the center of the board on rails but it was still very doable. The rocker made landings very smooth. This is definitely something I noticed in comparison to my regular board, a Burton Vapor. The Vapor is always shaky for the first split second or two after a big landing and I need to smooth it out. The DH2 however just felt a lot more comfortable getting back to the snow from the air. The one place I didn’t particularly enjoy this board was in the pipe. I wasn’t expecting it to perform because of the rocker tech on it. It felt a little fussy and couldn’t hold on to the walls of the pipe properly.

Stopping/Switching – I loved the way this board dug into the snow. It was effortless and did it in such a way that you would expect out of a freeride board without the aggressive grip on the ice. The board also has a twin shape to it, which made riding switch a lot more comfortable and controlled. The transition to switch was a lot easier because of the rocker. You could spend the day buttering up the slopes with this thing.

Pros

• Decent price for all the tech involved ($500).
• Park board that you can charge the mountain with.
• Natural, smooth switching.
• Durable edges will last you longer than most boards.

Cons

• Flex profile might not be suitable for everyone.
• Tailored mostly for park riders.
• Underperformer in the half pipe.

Overall Impression – Ride listened to snowboarders and tweaked the DH into this really cool all-mountain machine. If you live nearby a smaller resort and spend most of your time in the park, you’re going to love this thing. Outside the park, it will still keep up with your needs but won’t handle as well as a freeride board on very high speeds. Switching, buttering around, and just plain old fooling around just feels a lot cooler on this board. The jibbing experience on this thing is insane and to be honest, that might justify adding this stick to your arsenal. Definitely on my short list for 2010.

Related posts:

1. 2010 Ride Machete Review
2. Review: 2010 Lib Tech Banana Magic
3. Burton Jussi 2010 Review

With snowboarding season in full gear, I wanted to the time and spit out a list of the top 10 snowboarding boots for the season for both men and women. This is based on my research, reading endless numbers of (boring) reviews, comments, talking to people and my own personal experience with snowboarding boots. The list isn’t in any particular order (who can really say that one Boot is numerically better than another boot?) but you’ll notice that my personal favorite is numero uno!

1. Men’s Burton Ion - If you’re a regular reader of this blog you’ll know that the Burton Ion boots are my personal favorite. In my full Burton Ion review I only had good things to say about them. Given their balanced comfort level and stiffness, they are the ultimate snowboarding boots for the aggressive rider who likes to have fun. You’ll find yourself comfortable enough to bomb down a mountain while switching and taking jumps. Click here for full product details.

Made For: Freeriding/All-mountain

Pro’s

• Amazing build quality, thus they last quite a bit – I’ve packed over 200 riding days in them and they are just like new
• Very comfortable
• Super responsive
  
• Easy to put on and take off

Con’s

• Expensive ($400)
• Minor heel lift

2. Men’s Burton Hail Coalition - Freestyle choice for the past number of years, this boot has all the essentials for park domination, including a softer yet supportive flex and an articulating cuff to keep it consistent. It also features traditional lacing for the perfect fit, plush cushioning throughout the sole to hinder the big impacts, and just an overall comfortable design. We recommend the Hail to any serious rider that is looking for a time-tested, softer boot to abuse in the park or around the mountain. Click here for full product details.

Made for: Freestyling/Park fun

Pro’s

• Well priced ($249)
• Easy to put on and take off
• Minimal heel lift

Con’s

• A bit too flexible for non-park riding
• Uses traditional lacing system (personally, I prefer the Speed Zone lacing system)

3. Women’s Roxy Track Lace – Made for the skills levels of beginner to intermediate, these Roxy boots are developed with comfort in mind. They have a padded spine panel, low rise calf pocket, triple density ankle pads, and 3 piece padded tongue. In addition, the boot has a memory foam liner to ensure even more comfort. Click here for full product details.

Made for: Freestyle/Freeride/All around snowboarding

Pro’s:

• Well priced ($149)
• Nicely designed
• Comfortable

Con’s:

• Traditional lacing system

4. Men’s ThirtyTwo Lashed - The Lashed is ThirtyTwo’s best selling boot. I dare you to find a boot with a better price that offers what the Lashed does: outstanding response, comfort, and versatility for everyone. Click here for full product details.

Made for: Freestlye/Freeride/All around snowboarding

Pro’s

• Well priced ($199)
• Light
• Very responsive

Con’s

• Not the sexiest looking boots

5. Women’s Flow Lotus Boa Coiler - These boots offer great performance and comfort for a decent price. The BOA Coiler system is very useful for those who hate tying their boots and will amplify the close snug fit that you are always looking for. Along with that, you receive the Silver liner which is heat-moldable so you can acquire a perfect custom fit, and thus reduce heel-lift and sloppiness. Click here for full product details.

Made for: Freeriding/All-mountain snowboarding

Pro’s

• Well priced ($189)
• BOA lacing system
• Comfortable

Con’s

• None

So that sums up the top 5 snowboarding boots for 2010. Of course, boot feel and response will vary from person to person, but if you’re looking for a good pair of boots and don’t know where to start, this list is your answer.

Related posts:

1. Burton Ion Boots 2010 Review
2. Snowboard Boots: What You Need To Know
3. 2010 Burton Ozone Boot Review

I’ve been wanting to get this board for a couple seasons now, and I finally did this season. After a few weeks riding the Burton Jussi, it’s time to put up a review.

Setup: Burton Jussi 159, Burton C60 (with the ICS adapters) bindings, Burton Ion Boots.
Conditions: machine groomed and very cold!

Technology
Twin Shape – this board is symmetrical and should feel the same whether riding regular or switch, though it has a directional flex pattern, meaning the nose has less pop/flex than the tail to maintain better stability at higher speeds.
Inifite Channel System – supposedly provides a more direct connection between the bindings and the board (I don’t buy it), while easily letting you mount your bindings any way you choose (this, I buy).
Freestyle Scoop – exaggerated spoon shape which creates a forgiving feel by turning the edges up at the tip and tail.

First Impressions: This is an excellent all mountain freestyle board for the aggressive rider in you with a lot of pop and spring to it. Given that this is Jussi Oksanen’s board (and designed by him), you can only expect it to be that good, but the board is a bit too stiff to rock just anywhere.

Flex/Stability: Stiffer in the tail, with more pop in the nose, but overall pretty flexible board and fun to ride. Burton’s feel/stiff rating is 6/10, but the board felt a little stiffer than that (think of it more of a relative thing). In any case, it works out well, because the board felt very stable compared to many other freestyle mountain boards. Buttering with the Jussi board was fun.

Park/Jumps: Taking off jumps with the Jussi is great, and landing is not too hard on the knees, but don’t get too excited, because this is not a park board. I definitely wouldn’t recommend jibbing with it too much, because it wasn’t designed for the park in the first place.

Carving/Switching: The board is stiff and tuned enough to hold its edge under pretty high speeds. Switching was a lot of fun and riding regular felt pretty much the same as switch – no board will ever feel the exact same riding switch or regular since humans are not anatomically symmetrical, but this is as good as it gets.

Pro’s:

• Very playful thanks to the exaggerated spoon shape
• Stable under high speeds
• Switching is as natural as it gets

Con’s

• $$$ – somewhat expensive
• Not a fan of the board art
• Not for the park and jibs

My thoughts: The Burton Jussie is a wicked board designed for anyone looking for a fun, yet aggressive stick. Moving forward, this is going to be my primary board (replacing my much more aggressive Burton T6)

If you have any questions about the board, please leave a comment and I will answer you!

Related posts:

1. 2010 Burton Rider Review: Method, Jussi, Custom V-rocker, Jeremey Jones, Easy Living
2. 2010 Burton Custom V-Rocker Review: It’s Not What You Think
3. Burton T6 2010 Rider Review

With so many snowboards out there to choose from, the addition of all the new technology made available the past two seasons just makes life a whole lot more complicated. Cambers, reverse cambers, dead-flats, rockers, cambered-end rockers… It’s a zoo out there. To make your life easier we took a look at twelve of the best boards for this season, researched the crap out of them, and helped breakdown some of the tech that goes along with them. Here they are, in no particular order…

#1. Lib Tech’s “Skate Banana” ($490)

Although many snowboarding companies have been familiar with reverse camber technology for quite some time, you really have to give props to Lib Tech for reviving it with the Skate Banana. Over the past 2-3 seasons, the company has also been tweaking this board with minor adjustments just to make it better and better. I absolutely LOVE riding this board and so does everyone else who tries it.

The board features Lib Tech’s take on the “reverse camber” where the board is kinked upwards between the feet and from there runs flat to either end of the board. The result? A very loose, fun board that will have you jibbing around and pulling tricks like you never thought possible. Critics will say that this thing is unstable at high speeds but they’re wrong with this board cause the length of it from tip to tail will be on the snow when you carve. With eight contact points digging into the ice on a turn, you’ll also be more stable thanks to the Magne Traction tech.

Sizes: 148N, 151N, 152, 156, 156W, 159, 159W

#2. Ride’s DH2 ($500)

There’s been a lot of talk about the Ride DH2 among the snowboarding community for 2010.  The board features a different kind of reverse camber technology with the board running flat underneath your feet and then kicking up outside the bindings. This allows for a fun, relaxed feel that makes it ideal for the pipe, jumps, and pressing rails.

Haven’t tried this board myself but fellow boarders out there have told me that apart from being incredible in the park, the board can be used with no problems for aggressive riding as well. Ride adds what it likes to call “Carbon Pop Rods” in each tip that give a lot of character to the feel of this board. Apart from being lightweight, it also has thicker steel edges to help with the wear and tear that happens from park riding over time.

Sizes: 151, 153, 155, 156W, 157, 159, 159W

#3. Burton’s Joystick ($530)

With a name like “Joystick” you know fun is just around the corner with this board. Had the chance to try out this board from a Burton demo tent early into the season and was thoroughly impressed with it. Featuring Burton’s “rocker” reverse camber design, this board is similar to the Skate Banana in it’s between-the-feet kinkness. The board’s got a slightly wider feel with tips that scoop up (technology similar to Morrow’s spoon).

The Joystick is very fun to ride, whether it be for jibs, jumps, or pipe attacks. The nice thing about it is that it is insanely forgiving, so you can go big trying new tricks on it. The scooped tips maintain the boards very free feel even when you lean hard on it. With a very balanced stiffness and quick edge-to-edge movement, the board can do pretty much whatever you want.

Sizes: 150, 154, 156W, 157, 159W, 161, 163

#4. Omatic’s EXTR-ECO (aka The Wigglestick, $390)

Omatic took a different direction with this board. Instead of throwing in a reverse camber or “rocker” tech on it they opted to keep the board dead flat from tip to tail.  What they did do is play around with the stiffness of the board in different parts of it and add carbon fiber points to adjust its feeling. With their new BS technology (stands for Bowed Surface, no joke), Omatic have virtually eliminated any edge catching on rails with this board.

Carbon fiber V’s extending form the bindings to the edges help increase your stability when recovering from a jump or rail. They also help give a more dramatic pop to the board making it really fun to ride. The board’s flex is pretty soft in the middle of the board and stiffens as you go towards the tips for maximum control.  I also love the “no such thing as a ‘green’ snowboard’ decal.

Sizes: 149, 151, 154, 157, and 160

#5. Rome’s MOD ($550)

This solid board is designed for the more experienced, aggressive rider due to its conventional camber design. Camber boards are slightly raised in the midsection and run flat to the tips before they scoop up. This tech keeps the board very stable at high speeds. The MOD features a wider waist and mellower sidecut for nailing the landing on those giant jumps. Slightly scooped tips also alleviate the problem with most  camber boards by helping you stay more floaty in powder.

With a camber design and stiffer middle area than most boards, this thing will stick with you through the good times and the bad. The board feels really nice on traditional piste but will be pretty smooth off of it.

Sizes: 151, 154, 156, 158, 160, 162

#6. GNU’s Park Pickle ($490)

Have you ever noticed that when you’re bombing it down the mountain carving away slalom-style that turns on your toe edge are a w hole lot tighter than the turns you pull on your heel edge? The reason behind this is the fact that it’s impossible to dig your heel edge into the snow the way you can your toe edge. When I was first introduced to this board, I didn’t quite agree with that statement but then I took a closer look at the way I ride… My toe edge turns are so tight sometimes, my face skims inches away from the ground and I usually put my hand on the snow to get even more lean.

The guy’s at GNU came up with a great idea to counter this. The Park Pickle’s heel edge sidecut is one whole meter tighter than the toe edge, giving you that extra bit of digging power to make your turns nearly symmetrical. And guess what, it actually works! I tried this board at Mont Tremblant at the beginning of this month and difference is feelable. Mervin (the company that owns both GNU and Lib Tech) put the same banana reverse camber that you see in the Skate Banana into this board. They also added Magne Traction, softened the waist, and stiffened the tips for a perfectly balanced board. The board’s asymmetrical sidecuts doesn’t make it look weird or anything. You won’t even notice it.

Sizes: 147, 150, 153, 156, 156W, 159, 159W

#7. K2’s Slayblade ($550)

Meant for high speeds, the Slayblade is stiff from end to end and even from edge to edge. What I love about this board is that it’s your typical aggressive stiff board, but with a dead flat camber profile. This will give the board a much more forgiving, playful feel than other stiff boards out there. So, you can hang around the park, jib and play around, then just bomb it the hell out of there.

I haven’t tried this board personally but I can only imagine it as being something I would definitely be interested in. My riding is fast and aggressive but I have those days when I just want to spend hours in the park and my Burton Vapor just isn’t meant for that with its positive camber and pretty stiff core. I want to play around but still have the freedom to ride the chair to the peak and tear the mountain apart when I want to. A stiff dead flat like the Slayblade sounds just about right.

Sizes: 153, 156, 158, 159W, 160W, 161, 164, 164W

#8. Never Summer’s EVO-R ($480)

I love it when snowboarding companies look at a problem boarders are having and then come up with great solutions to tackle them. A lot of riders that make the switch from camber to reverse camber or rocker boards complain of the “dead” feel they have with reverse camber because the board isn’t as poppy and pulling of an ollie just feels different. Never Summer’s answer? Give the board a reverse camber between the feet but a normal camber design underneat the feet and out to the tips.

This technology is very similar to Lib Tech’s C2 Power Banana, which I had the chance to try this season. All I can say is wow. These boards just combine the best of both worlds. You’ll find yourself twirling on it’s center like a ballerina but when you need that perfect pop to ollie onto a rail, it’s there waiting for you. The design also gives the board a slightly more stable feel at higher speeds than traditional reverse cambers.

Sizes: 148, 151, 153, 155, 158, 161

#9. DC’s BDR ($430)

For a company that’s not really known for making snowboards, DC pulled off a great board with the BDR. The reverse camber design here runs flat between the feet and kinks up right outside the feet straight to the tail. The boards are playful and super fun for the park rider.

For those occasional back country missions, the “kinkness” in the BDR will help you stay afloat in powder. The board is stiff from tip to tail meaning that there will be zero squirming at high speeds too. An all around, fun yet reliable reverse camber board from Ken Block and his crazies at DC.

Sizes: 149, 153, 156, 159

#10. Capita’s Indoor Survival FK ($400)

FK stands for Flat Kick and helps you get an idea of the design of this board. The core of the board is flat between the bindings and lifts up outside them for that kinked feel we talked about earlier. The tips of the board are different in the sense that they are flatter than most tips you see out there. The design contributes to the versatility this board is meant for.

The Indoor Survival is wider than most boards, which gives it a lot of energy and the right setup to nail big jumps. The board starts out stiff in the center and gets softer towards the tails for a very smooth and clean feel.

Sizes: 152, 154, 156, 158, 160

#11. Smokin’s MIP DTX ($420)

Smokin’ Snowboards purchased the license for Lib Tech’s Magne Traction and threw it on this kinked reverse camber board. Smokin’ have been gaining a lot of attention from riders lately because of their truly versatile fun boards. The MIP DTX is solid at high speeds, stable on sharp turns, yet catch-free on spins and jib landings. This board is truly meant for everywhere on the mountain: park, groomers, powder, and cliff drops.

Sizes: 147, 151, 155, 158

#12. Nitro’s Rook ($470)

If you’re the park rider that’s hesitant on giving up the more traditional positive camber design, the Rook is definitely for you. This thing was made for the park in every sense. Clean presses, clean spins, and clean pipe boosts are all part of the package.

The board is slightly wide and is softer in the middle than in the tips. The nice sidecut profile helps with edge-to-edge transitioning while the rest of the board helps you stay stable on the rails and jump landings. If you’re not ready for the transition to a reverse camber just yet, it may be worth your while to give this stick a shot.

Sizes: 152, 154, 156, 158

Merry Christmas and a Shreddin’ New Year folks!

Related posts:

1. Review: 2010 Lib Tech Banana Magic
2. Top 5 Freeride Snowboards of 2010
3. Burton T6 2010 Rider Review

Finding the right snowboard is undoubtedly a very important mission, but finding the right pair of boots is just as important. I’ve had 2008 model of the Burton Ion boots for a couple seasons now, but this year I upgraded to the 2010 model.  I wouldn’t normally review a boot, because the feel of one will differ from person to person, but this will offer some light into your dark search for a boot.

Setup: I used the Burton Ion boots with Burton’s T6 snowboard and Burton’s C60 bindings.

Where: Blue Mountain, Mont Tremblant, Banff, Colorado, and Whistler with all kinds of snow conditions.

Technology:

• Speed Zone Lacing: makes loosening and tightening boots very easy.
• Low-profile EST Optimized Midsole: essentially this tech brings you closer to the binding and thus lowering your center of gravity. In my opinion, every little bit counts.
• RX Adjustable Cushioning: Very fancy way of saying that you can change the gel pack used in the boots, but useful nonetheless. You can opt for more cushioning for easier riding, or less cushioning for more aggressive riding.

Pro’s:

• Very easy to put on/take off: The boots’ speed zone lacing combined with the excellent boot quality and build, putting them on and taking them off was very easy. Just loosen them all the way, tighten the liners (the inside layer), and pull away on the two laces. Done.
• Comfortable: Man are these comfortable boots! Strapped and unstrapped, the Burton Ions hug your feet oh so warmly.
• Flexibility: This is an all-mountain freestyle boot and I must say, it lives up to that designation. Burton pegged the Ion a 8/10 for support (1/10 being least stiff and 10/10 stiffest). In other words, these boots are excellent for all around riding. With over a 100 days of riding, my older Burton Ions are (surprisingly) as stiff as new and thus wear n’ tear has not diminished the boots’ excellent responsiveness.
• Style: The Burton Ion 2010 are very well designed, and unlike most boots, they look sexy (I have the black ones, but they also come in white).

Neutral:

• Heel lift: I didn’t want to put this in the Con’s section, simply because I’m a very aggressive rider who likes taking jumps, so heel lift is inevitable. Nonetheless, I still experienced some heel lift, and I really wasn’t expecting any given that the Burton Ions are Burton’s 2nd most expensive snowboarding boots. With that said, the extra ankle support pads that come with the boots work well to decrease the heel lift. However, those pads were designed to be used after a few years of usage, but instead, I had to install them within the first season.

Con’s:

• Expensive: Did the Italians design these boots or what? I bought my first Ions a season old for $250, but I shelled out $400 for the new ’10 model. Boots that cost more than a decent number of snowboards are expensive any way you spin it.
• Too stiff for the park: The Burton Ions are unfriendly when it comes to park play. While taking and landing jumps are doable in these, you’ll feel the pain when you switching and more so when landing switch jumps. Tip: make sure you are wearing thick socks if you insist on park play.

Current Model v.s. Previous Models

• Design has been changed, albeit slightly, but I like the new ones more.
• The current model has been optimized for EST bindings (explained above in the ‘Technology’ section).
• Speed zone lacing system has been altered to easier usability (I didn’t feel much of a difference, but that just could be my experienced hands).
• Changeable gel pack (explained in ‘Technology’ section), which was also available in the ’09 model, but non-existent in prior to that.

My Suggestions to Burton:

• As always, please find it in your hearts to use less fancy ‘BS’ terminology.
• Let’s work on improving the heel lift issue, even if I’m the only one experiencing.

I love my Burton Ion boots, and there’s a reason why I bought the newer models. As an aggressive rider who likes to play around a bit on the mountain, these boots are as good as they get at the moment. With that said, keep in mind that your experience with boots will be different than my experience, so make sure you try them on first at the store. And when you do, feel free to walk around in them in the store for 5-10 minutes before you make a decision. Finding the right snowboarding boots is important!

If you have any questions, comments, or want to share your experience with the boots, leave a comment below or contact us.

Related posts:

1. Top 5 Snowboarding Boots for 2010
2. 2010 Burton Ozone Boot Review
3. Burton T6 2010 Rider Review